We tested Stéphane Rotenberg's new restaurant in Suresnes

We tested Stéphane Rotenberg’s new restaurant in Suresnes

So how is Top Chef Le Bistrot? Rarely has a restaurant opening aroused such curiosity. Envy, certainly, tinged with a little doubt despite everything. Because imagine the promise: the best dishes or at least the most emblematic of the chefs who have made the reputation of the famous cooking show for 39.90 euros the starter-main course-dessert formula, at lunch and dinner. Is it really a good deal?

“For the opening, I wanted finalists, winners and a few starred stars,” Stéphane Rotenberg told 20 minutes. Not to get stars, huh, here we are in a bistro, ”recalls the presenter of the show transformed into a restaurant owner, taking the time to greet each table and give him a selfie. “It was the chefs who chose the dishes and who came to redo them in the kitchen”, he specifies, even if their dressing has been simplified. And if they are not there to serve them.

A choice of four starters, four main courses and four desserts

In Suresnes, a few strides from the Seine, Top Chef Le Bistrot sends heavy to each service: four starters, four dishes and four desserts signed by Arnaud Delvenne (season 13), Camille Delcroix and Victor Mercier (season 9), Coline Faulquier (season 7) and Thibault Sombardier (season 5). No Norbert Tarayre (season 3), yet financially involved with the Bistrots Pas Parisiens and the M6 ​​group, at least for the moment… “But given the number of former candidates present at the inauguration, I’m not worried. worry, there will be many more,” assures Stéphane Rotenberg. Especially since the chefs are paid to adapt their works.

So for these debuts in the summer of 2022, which dishes should you choose? Out of eight dishes tested, our favorites go to the most daring. The mushroom from the Parisian star Victor Mercier (d’) surprises as a starter with its mint coulis and Hollandaise sauce with pralines. Marseille star chef Coline Faulquier has found the perfect balance between grilled mackerel and poached oysters. For dessert, Arnaud Delvenne thrills us, as he did in front of Gilles Goujon this year in Top chefwith its citrus, unstructured variation around a lemon-grapefruit-yuzu tart as lively as it is tangy.

The fresh potato velouté from Thibault Sombardier, the appetizing poultry from Camille Delcroix, the delicate floating island from Victor Mercier stand out, but without offering the same gustatory emotion. On the other hand, we are more skeptical about the interest of Arnaud Delvenne’s broth which softens the crisps of his Thai tab or about the slightly sickening accumulation of the five chocolates in Coline Faulquier’s dessert.

In terms of decoration, the restaurant offers many different atmospheres. More relaxed on the terrace with its pantry corners. More chic inside with the knives from the final put under a bell jar, a black box that can still be lit up and pretty alcoves hidden behind fridge doors… Enough to redo the show according to your mood and the weather. from the moment. Reservations strongly recommended and only on The Fork website.

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